When my friend Joe proposed a climbing trip to Iraq, I was immediately captivated. The nation held deep significance for me, as my father, a U.S. soldier, was killed there in combat in 2005 when I was just seven. Over the years, my focus has shifted from the tragedy of his death to the everyday lives of those rebuilding in a post-conflict environment.
## Discovering Kurdistan
In February, I touched down in the Kurdistan region of northern Iraq, where the jagged peaks of the Zagros Mountains draw climbers and adventurers alike. The local population, predominantly Kurdish, embraces a vibrant culture, characterized by traditional attire and teahouses filled with conversation. Joe, an accomplished photographer and a passionate climber, encouraged me to leave my job and join him on this journey. I viewed this experience as an opportunity to delve into topics like community resilience, displacement, and recovery in regions affected by conflict.
Our main destination was the Yazidi homeland near Sinjar and Lalish, two communities still recovering from the horrific actions of ISIS. With the guidance of our Kurdish friend Saman, who had shared personal stories of his life in Duhok, we began to transition from abstract discussions about his homeland to experiencing its realities firsthand.
## The Climbing Scene in Erbil
Our first climbing days unfolded in Music Valley and Peshmerga Park, where we met local climbers Mohammed, Mario, Oskar, and Hidaya. The group’s enthusiasm helped us navigate unfamiliar terrains, making climbing an unforgettable introduction to Erbil’s burgeoning climbing culture. Under the leadership of American expat Kristopher Palmer, Equip Climbing Club has been instrumental in training new climbers, organizing routes, and fostering a sustainable climbing community.
Despite being a relatively new activity in the region, climbing is gaining popularity. Weekends attract groups eager to connect with nature and each other at various crags. Historical bolted routes exist, albeit mostly forgotten, marking the contributions of previous adventurers. The limestone cliffs we climbed beautifully showcased the richness of the area’s geology, offering routes suitable for climbers of all levels.
## A Community United by Climbing
The Kurdish proverb “no friends but the mountains” resonates deeply within the climbing community here. For many, climbing is more than just a sport; it serves as a means of coping with daily pressures and connecting with friends and family. Hidaya expressed that climbing is a meditative practice that allows individuals to escape mental noise and focus solely on the moment. Yet, the realities of living in a conflict zone remain ever-present, as conversations turn to airspace closures and military activities.
During a spell of inclement weather, I found comfort in the warmth of Hidaya’s family home, surrounded by friends from various backgrounds. Sharing meals and laughter created bonds that reinforced our shared love for climbing and the spirit of resilience that permeated the room. This camaraderie exemplified the beauty of diverse communities coming together through a common passion.
## Facing Adversity in a Conflict Zone
Throughout my trip, the landscape of climbing was often interwoven with the unpredictability of conflict. Reports of drones and military activities punctuated our days, creating a constant backdrop of tension. On one occasion, we witnessed the aftermath of a drone attack while bouldering. In such moments, climbing provided an array of emotional and mental solace amidst uncertainty.
With the prospect of continued conflict looming, it became evident that sustainable climbing in Kurdistan must be spearheaded by local climbers. Initiatives like the Kurdistan Climbing Club aim to establish stronger ties within the community, develop local expertise, and create enduring opportunities for future climbers.
As violence persists, the determination of Kurdish climbers to normalize their lives is inspiring. Despite the challenges, they see climbing as a reprieve from chaos—a persistent element of stillness amid an ever-changing landscape. This resolve illustrates that, no matter the situation, the joys of climbing will endure.
Through initiatives like the Global Climbing Initiative, there’s a call to support these passionate climbers and help them establish a sustainable climbing community in Kurdistan.